Wristwatches of the Equestrian World

From the polo fields of Argentina and England to the arenas of Wellington, Upstate New York, and Normandy, wristwatches have long been woven into equestrian sports and the encompassing lifestyle. Far beyond the obvious—their role in event timing—timepieces work in concert with riders, and embody the values of myriad equestrian sports: precision, durability, and a reverence for tradition. Throughout the history of watches, some brands have aligned more closely with the equine world, including the heavyweight quartet of Longines, Rolex, Hermès, and Jaeger-LeCoultre, though all in differing capacities.

It is the latter that developed one of the most recognizable watch models worldwide in response to an equestrian sport. In 1930, entrepreneur and friend to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Jacques-David LeCoultre—César de Trey was traveling through India when he was asked if he could find a way to protect the glass and dial of wristwatches worn by British army officers playing polo. He approached LeCoultre with an idea: What if the case could flip over for sporting activities?

French industrial designer René-Alfred Chauvot was tasked with concepting it, and on March 4, 1931, a patent was filed in Paris. Soon after, the rectangular Reverso was born. Not only were pieces on sale within nine months, but commercial success was immediate. Today, the Reverso’s reversible module and Art Deco design touches endure, though the concept has become a platform for advancement and experimentation by the prestigious producer, often referred to as “the watchmaker’s watchmaker.” The watch remains a favorite among polo players.

Though the name Hermès conjures images of the famed Birkin bag, silk scarves, or even colorful ties with playful animal patterns, none would exist without the success of its equestrian origins. In 1837, founder Thierry Hermès opened a workshop that crafted harnesses and saddles of the highest quality. Today, Hermès continues to craft leading equestrian accessories and weave equine design language into its wristwatches.

This year, Hermès debuted the Arceau Rocabar de Rire, which incorporates a horse automaton that’s been hand-engraved and hand-painted set within horsehair marquetry. This mischievous horse sticks out his tongue thanks to the petite sculptural component’s movement. The visual first featured in a motif by Dimitri Rybaltchenko for the maison’s Rocabar de Rire silk scarf. Not only is it an artful expression of Hermès’ connection to horses, it’s a technically advanced wristwatch, as well. Although the entire Arceau line, as well as the Galop d’Hermes collection, are not designed for riding, they are emblematic in many ways—even the case shape nods to a riding stirrup.

Remarkably, the earliest origins of Hermès watchmaking are also equestrian. In 1912, long before the French heritage house had a watchmaking division, a young Jacqueline Hermès received a leather pocket-watch holder, porte-oignon in French, from her father, Émile Hermès. It was designed to be worn on her wrist. This protective strap enveloped her pocket watch, and allowed her to ride without having to stow it in her pocket. One hundred years later, Hermès released the limited-edition “In The Pocket Watch” as a tribute to this early object.

Founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, Rolex has been involved in the equestrian world since 1957 when it welcomed British show jumper Pat Smythe into its family of ambassadors, known as “testimonees.” The first woman to claim an Olympic show jumping medal, Smythe preceded Zara Tindall, dressage star Isabell Werth, and show jumper Rodrigo Pessoa, as well as our cover star, Jessica Springsteen, a testimonee since 2022. The watchmaker’s esteemed roster also includes Richard Vogel, Steve Guerdat, Martin Fuchs, and Kent Farrington.