By David Graver
The quaint hamlets, wooded parcels, and pastoral landscapes that speckle both sides of New York State’s Hudson River have long housed countryside communities. These idyllic destinations have offered a reprieve to New York City residents for decades, thanks to their enchanting mix of fresh air, relaxed pace, and proximity to nature and the shifting seasons. Only in the past few years, however, have these charming villages, towns, and tertiary cities welcomed hospitality outlets innovative enough to warrant dedicated trips themselves. From literary retreats with Michelin- starred chefs to landscaped compounds peppered with upscale cabins, the region running north from the city now hosts hotels and guesthouses that meet the high expectations of modern travelers.
One of the newest options, Inness (10 Banks St., Accord, 845.377.0030) offers 40 rooms set amid 225 rolling acres—some of which have been left wild, while others have been meticulously cultivated by landscape architect Miranda Brooks—outside the town of Accord, west of the Hudson River. No visitor would be surprised to learn that this retreat has been named after the famed American landscape painter George Inness, especially when glancing from the sprawling meadows to the Catskill Mountains in the distance. Twelve of the property’s rooms are in the central New England–inspired farmhouse, which doubles as a hub of social activity, while 28 private cabins are equipped with everything guests may need.
The amenities at Inness are impressive. It has its own tennis courts and nine-hole golf course. There’s an onsite restaurant with seasonal greens supplied by Inness’s three-acre organic farm. Two pools and a wellness center and spa are forthcoming. Strolling through it all is encouraged—and sanctuary is the underlying mission. Dutch Colonial attributes were imparted by the design firm Post Company and imagined by founder Taavo Somer (known for two hip hotspots—the restaurant Freeman’s and the bar Ray’s— in New York City, and Hotel Kinsley further north in Kingston). In addition to being a Hudson Valley haven, Inness also offers a membership option.
Across the Hudson, alongside the Connecticut border, Troutbeck (515 Leedsville Rd., Amenia, 845.789.1555 ) calls the town of Amenia home—and has for more than two centuries. Enveloped in forests, the centerpiece of this 45-acre property is a 250-year-old stone manor of unmatched beauty. It was once home to a poet and frequented by many historic literary figures. When Anthony Champalimaud acquired the estate, he kept its revitalization in the family, looking to his mother Alexandra Champalimaud, founder of the acclaimed firm Champalimaud Design. Together they’ve honored the heritage but infused the grounds with renewed glamour and contemporary characteristics.
In addition to 37 guestrooms and nine suites, as well as cozy shared spaces, the hotel houses a regionally focused restaurant with a menu composed of local, seasonal fare. It’s helmed by chef Gabe McMackin, who received a Michelin star for his previous establishment, The Finch, in Brooklyn. From the pristine pool to the tennis courts and the meandering trails, Troutbeck emphasizes outdoor activity. A schedule of unique and immersive events—ranging from falconry to meditation to wreathmaking—also draws guests, be they from the nearby private community at Silo Ridge or from NYC two hours to the south. In 2020, Troutbeck unveiled its newest structural addition, The Barns. These timber- clad hubs are dedicated to high-end wellness activities and treatments. As with Inness, Troutbeck doubles as a members’ club, with access to all the facilities and programming, reduced rates, and upgrades.
In the aforementioned Kingston, a transformed Hutton Brickyards (200 North St., Kingston, 845.213.4742) opened its doors in 2021 after a multiyear restoration by owner Karl Slovin and Salt Hotels. This architectural gem—which abuts the Hudson River along 73 rolling acres—happens to be the region’s last structurally intact former brick factory. Despite a contemporary edge, this heritage imbues all 31 guest cabins and suites. Panoramic vistas and uninterrupted water views are a priority here, but the amenities do not take a back seat— from the menu at chef Dan Silverman’s Winter Pavilion restaurant to the indulgent waterfront spa and calendar of performances and activities. On the whole, it’s a place of rest and recreation. Among the tempting offerings are outdoor yoga and guided kayak experiences in the warm-weather months.
The Maker Hotel features local seasonal fare. (Photo: Francine Zaslow)
An urban oasis in the center of Hudson, The Maker Hotel (302 Warren St., Hudson, 518.509.2620) channels the city’s deep history. In fact, the 11-room boutique hotel comprises three preserved historic buildings—including a Georgian mansion and a carriage house from the 1800s—that have been harmoniously restructured. Luscious interiors, lavish textiles, period-appropriate accents, and a resounding warmth are just some of the splendors within. Visitors to the seasonal restaurant dine in a glass conservatory draped with greenery and tucked into the back of the hotel. It’s a showstopper. The city itself is also an amenity at The Maker. Hudson now counts design stores, antique shops, art galleries, impressive eateries, and more as part of its social fabric. In many ways, it’s a cultural lighthouse that calls out to those most curious about the region.